The Northwest Pacific Coast Giveth and the NWPC Taketh Away

That which doesn't kill you makes you stronger? Really? I'm just hoping that which didn't kill me today doesn't leave me with walking pneumonia. But I get ahead of myself. Saturday morning dawned cool and gray. What a surprise! But the ride out of Corvallis was quite enjoyable. The self-proclaimed "Most innovative city in America" also bills itself as a Bicycle Friendly Community. I have no argument.

Biker Friendly Gazebo

Miles of separated bike paths led me out town toward the coastal range where I eventually hopped on state route 20W for the coast. Did you ever psyche yourself for something you thought was going to be extremely difficult only to find that it was much easier than expected? Such was the case with crossing the coastal range. Google's terrain map caused me to envision category 3 and maybe even Cat 2 level climbs. As it turned out the traverse was relatively easy. At one point I came across a sign marking the summit at 770'. 770'!? That's all you got? Turns out yes, that's all it got. I arrived in Toledo, OR and turned down the Yaquina Bay coastal route. The next 35 miles were glorious. Spinning along the bay I started to catch the smell of conifers, salt, fish...the ocean. At the mouth of the Yaquina one arrives at Newport, OR; a pretty port with beautiful homes peppering the bluffs overlooking the working harbor. Riding down Main Street, tourist seafood restaurants are mixed with seafood processing plants.

Entering Newport                                                           Leaving Newport

Hit the ocean and turn left. From Newport I swing south and enjoy a great ride down the coast. The sun had appeared in all it's glory, the sound of surf gave rhythm to my pedal strokes and the air, fresh, clean and cool was a joy to breath. The original plan had been to get to Florence but after 85 miles I came across "The gem of the Oregon Coast" - Yachats (pronounced ya-hots). A nice town tucked along an ocean cove, it deserved the name. I pulled into a hotel on the beach, tossed on some shorts and soaked up a bit of sun before popping down to town and having the best bowl of clam chowder I've ever had at Ona Restaurant. Back to the hotel to witness a spectacular ocean sunset. Best ride of the trip so far leaving me with high hopes for today.

The beach along Yachats and the town itself

I awoke at 7, pulled the drapes and beheld a sea shimmering in the sun. Yes! Today would be great. Ah, but the sun would prove to be a coy and cruel mistress. She soon slipped behind the clouds and would not reappear for the remainder of the day. The first half of the day was still excellent riding - ocean to the right and forests to the left; a bit of climbing but nothing serious. I hit the summit and beheld the Oregon dunes stretching for miles.

Enjoying the descent and the flat roads I quickly arrived in Reedsport where the high clouds dropped to the deck and began to leak. A stop for lunch and a leisurely coffee saw the rain let up and I pushed off again. This was quickly proven to be premature but I was committed. I needed to get to Bandon, 100 miles from Yachats.

Taking the Oregon Coastal Bike Route I found myself on 7 Devils Road; appropriate as I was in cycling hell. The wind stepped up, the rain increased and the temperature dropped as I climbed. It was 50 miles and 3 1/2 hours of digging into my suitcase of courage; although Phil Ligget would not have described my riding as dancing on the pedals. The forecast that morning had been partly sunny. What's with meteorology? I know weather systems are complex but you can't even tell me what the weather is going to be TODAY!!!??? I got through the ride by composing haiku in my head:

Twenty miles to go
Rain, wind, cold
Where is Bandon town?

Turn the pedals hard
No progress

The chain has dropped off